Non EU country today

Day 12

Mount Olympus, Greece to Lake Ohrid, Macedonia

Today's journey didn't take long and I was keen to stay where we were and have a morning swim but the see was choppy and I thought better of it. The boys were not keen to come either. Richard had been for his swim ( I have since found out he was a triathlete)  and swims daily at Weymouth. 

Today's destination was very much an unknown destination so Nik didn't want to delay our departure by too much and some teams were trying to meet at the border. The border was soon upon us and we managed to arrive with Team Trauma and Team Nightmare. The Lexus boys were also there. As this was a non Eu country our insurance didn't cover us so we had to buy it at the border €50, steep for a 1 night stop over. 

Not dissimilar in many ways to Romania and Bulgaria in the feel and look of the country. Alongside falling down properties on their last legs were newer properties which looked abandoned mid way  through their build. There were of course completed new builds all of. A similar boxy looking style, lacking character I felt. 

We were headed for a camp site on the edge of lake Ohrid. As we arrived towards the local area Trauma and Nightmare pulled off in preferences for a hotel stay as apposed to camping. On a budget camping was going to be our accommodation for this evening. What would Macedonian camping be like???????  

Our Satnav struggled to find our camp site, hotel Drim & camping was lake side. However Hotel and campsite were an hours walk apart so once with Deno and Ralf in their Kia we wound round the streets trying to keep lake side to find it. Eventually we did. The welcome sign said "No smoking" followed by a sight with a gun and a cross,we assumed me and no guns! The site looks like it has a wire fence. Not sure if that's to keep people in or us out. We were told to leave our passports and come back in 1 hour, time to forge new ones maybe! €9 though so we thought we would give it a go. Safety in numbers because some others were already there. We had hot water at designated times and were surrounded by very old style 70's caravans with mettle grills on the windows. It says a lot when caravans past their sell buy date are so heavily secured.The lake looked calm and I did dip my toes, wee more than I planned as my flip flop floated out across the lake. Luckily I caught it just before I was thigh deep. Richard was already doing his lengths and said it was cold but bearable once you got going. I thought about it but favoured playing with my camera instead. 

Lake Ohrid is 34km long and 300 metres deep, it's Macedonia's most popular destination and was full in the busy end of the town with children swimming and families soaking up the sun. Like Weymouth in Macedonia! We ventured into town in search of supplies and a replacement mug for Martin ( Dolly the Morris Minor co pilot). Martin had used his for a fuel vessel for Dolly so advisable not having his cuppa from it. 

The Son of Habatchi made an appearance for a BBQ and Richard and Mark joined us with their BBQ food. Time for a chilled evening swapping stories around the Mosie coils!!!! We were joined by Martin and Harvey from Dorris, Robin and his wife from Trigger along with their daughter and relative newbie Tash, Steve and Chris from The Mowlam Mob and Jonas from team Swede. We were reassured that we were in a safe campsite when the night security gaurd came and advised us through gesticulation that we should make sure all our possessions were packed away. The many campsite dogs  kept him alert of unwanted visitors by barking. We managed to finish off the Jack Daniels and Archers with a little help from friends and will now have to find some dodgy foreign fire water, not a problem where we're going......

Tomorrow we're off to...................

Sand castles any one?

Day 11

Banksy, Bulgaria to the sea shore below Mount Olympus, Greece

Yesterday Craig had noticed Oil dripping from the Diff????  So after a lovely breakfast he pulled on his overalls and complete with saddles he headed under Olly to check her belly. If it's not the bonnet he is under the next place to look for Craig is under the car! He also found the exhaust had problems too. This is all not surprising considering the state of some of the roads in the last few countries, we're also very low to the ground! After full consultation with the bible, in our case the Haynes manual and text advice from home the decision was to get hold of some Diff oil and see if topping up caused more leaking after a tweak from Craig. Craig secured the exhaust with his coat hanger, whose purpose on our adventurer campsite and  I now understand. Back in shorts and T-shirt we headed down the mountain.  Once again lovely mountain scenery with snow caped peaks and dark sheer drops encased in alpine Forrest.

 

The drive to Greece was not particularly interesting but on arrival Steve had really pulled this one out of the bag. Really lovely campsite with great facilities but most importantly steps leading straight down and into the sea. Sun loungers, no sand which I think is the best and beer brought to you so you don't have to move. First thing was to dive in. As it was shingle it's not great under foot but there were smooth steps out into the. Water to a point where you can swim from. How civilised! The water was warm, crystal clear and mainly occupied the Windy crew's. Chilled music played by the sea view bar above us, what more could we need after days on the road. To to pit off Steve had said that for the next few days we would only have 180 ish miles per day, time for the boys to chill.

  

Our evening was spent in the restaurant over looking the see trying the local delights. Baked Octopus was not quite the calamari Nik had hoped for but we all had a taste, lets just say we won't be ordering that again.

 We sat and chatted with Mark and Richard from team 19 with the Proton. Richard is a keen Photographer and had shot a lot of footage from our Transfagarasan run's and had some amazing shots from the lightening storms. I was keen to learn from Richard and had earlier picked his brain while sat by the see. This time armed with my camera I had some hands on opportunity to learn. I was really pleased with the results. Nothing like Richards but a good start working with the available light. We talked kit and some investment in lens and filters is the next step in kit and getting to grips with the effects of depth of field and exposure is now my mission. I'll have to have some more Richard lessons, with 11 days left that should be a good masterclass! Judging by his website -  Richard Anders Photography I could learn a lot. Go Check  out his work and blog, it's a must. 

Not much to report today

Day 10

Banksy, Bulgaria to a ski resort

Not a very eventful day. The journey out of town was interesting. Satnav didn't seem to have any idea where we were so we followed our noses till Sally Satnav found us. The initial journey was reminiscent of home with the Green hedges and golden yellow from the Rape however on closer inspection the yellow was fields of sunflowers. There was of course the Prostitutes road side, at 10 a.m! The scenery morphed into mountains and a steady incline where we came across Team Trauma and followed the rear of their Ambulance. But not before we may have needed their services. I was busy calculating our hours traveled and miles when Craig shouted put your seat belt on. Craig doesn't normally shout. Apparently we had had a very close shave. Olly vs huge lorry. It was on our side of the road hurtling down the mountain. Nik who was driving couldn't go any where as we were mountain side. It missed us by millimetres Craig said and the boys were both visibly shaken. 

Back in the mountains again, the terrain I have found a new love for was lovely. We headed for the ski town of Banksy. I was expecting nice ski chalets which were really picturesque. Far from it. We couldn't locate our apartment and a very nice Bulgarian lady came to our aid noticing our car was not Bulgarian. I'm sure she noticed more than that!

We finally found it and it looked closed. Nik headed towards a large wooden door and found out I was the correct one and they had our booking for a 2 bed apartment. Trigger crew arrived just behind us as Craig was very carefully negotiating bringing Olly into the underground car park. The apartment was lovely with really sunny balcony so I set about washing clothes, again!

We met up with a few others to have a couple of beers in the sun. Craig had a dip in the pool and then we took advantage of having a kitchen and cooked dinner. Chilled night I. And Nik exhausted so off to bed we made him go. 

Tomorrow we're off to .............,

Now time to get down the mountain

Day 9

 Tansfagarason Highway, Romania to Russo in Bulgaria

Everyone awoke and checked around to see that they and their belongings were intact. All ok for us, thankfully. We had finally drifted off to sleep as the storm passed. I went around then campers to see how everyone had faired and some had abandoned tents to sleep in their vehicles. Team Trauma had 4 of their crew sleeping in various positions in their Ambulance. I may not have mentioned them before. They arrived to meet us all in Hungary as were not able to set off until Wednesday. They had the Ambulance donated to them! 

In general Camp Windy survived well, some did find themselves floating on water but as we said it's all part of the "wild camping" experience. We would love to wild camp again if there is an opportunity at the remaining travel destinations along our journey. As usual though Steve isn't giving much away.

Going down the other side of the mountain was stunning too but in a different way. Still winding and steep but greener with waterfalls. Several tunnels to navigate and Nik has developed an urge to turn on the blue LED lights and siren. At least people should see and hear us. The mountain was steep and Olly's breaks are not great so brake fade set in fairly quickly. A wait in a lay by to cool down the breaks was just search of Bulgarianmmwhat Olly needed. This also gave me opportunities to take pictures.

We came across the amazing feet of engineering which was a gigantic dam, we couldn't find a parking spot for Olly. She doesn't slide gracefully into tight spaces. There were lots of people with cameras and We have some pic's. someone said it made their head spin just looking down at the sheer drop. In the uk there would be barriers and you would have to pay to take a look.  

We headed for The Bulgarian boarder, over the river Danube. It's not at all blue by the way. Our first impressions of Bulgaria from the journey from border to Hotel approx 25 mins, was that this looked like an Easter block country. More Of what we had estimated to have been in previous places visited. Many teams headed out into the town in search of a restaurant, returning much latter with sore heads but having danced along with the locals to some Bulgarian music. We took advantage of a nice meal in our hotel food. Kate had booked us in somewhere earlier Hotel Anna. Very friendly staff and our waiter couldn't couldn't do enough for us. 

Tomorrow we're headed to .............

We're here at last to realise a dream come true

Day 9 Tansfagarason Highway, Romania

There was a real buzz around the camp site today. Vehicles were being given that extra bit of attention as today was the day we had all looked forward to and talked about for months. Harvey was busy reciting the fuel pump from the front to rear of Dorris the Morris Minor. A drill was needed and Martin was banging on the tent to see if Craig had one. he didn't but Robin in Trigger did so mission accomplished along with wooden props to raise bonnet to cool engine down. Fair play to Harvey and Martin, Dorris needed some extra care and attention but got the loudest cheer when she arrived at our destination's. as with us cooling the engine was a problem on hill climbs and Craig had fitted an extra fan to ours. All essential modifications for today we took on the challenge of the "Top Gear" famed Transfagarasan Highway.  Only we don't have super cars ours were much loved crumbly old girls and boys. A 23 year old Limo, try that one Clarkson!!!!!!!

Some teams were keen to get going, Team Lotus and Chameleon had couldn't get there quick enough. Team Chameleon loaded with Go pro dash mount and a tank full of fuel reported back. Marks dreams had come true, it really was EPIC! I don't know how many trips up and down they did but between swaps both Mark and Richard must have maxed out their engine.

Our trip to base of the Trans was interesting, whiteness to both Romanian wedding and funeral. A convoy with the Mobster Mowlems and Jezebel led us through a small Romanian village with deep pot hole covered roads and locals who looked on surprised to see us.  We must have been the talk of the village, I can't imagine they see much of this action. Several U turns and shrugging of shoulders we found a lay by to pull into to collect some others to join the convoy. Team Nightmare and Team 46, The Swede's also hooked up. Anna however, decided the car wasn't good enough so set off on her bike! Yes, we were all in ore. She is training for a bike ride from Sweden to Paris in July but I'm not sure if she'll have mountains quite like this. We all applauded as she rode off. Mark had said it would be approx 20 mins to summit, more or less depending on our old girls. They were managing 10 minutes in their Proton. Who knows what Team Lotus times were.  Before we started -

On the Transfagarasan highway

Setting off up the Trans with the Extra fan on and eyes on the temperature gauge and elevation. Starting elevation was 1822 above sea level. It was a very steep drive under the cover of the mountain trees and I was thinking where are the open winding turns between the two mountains "Top Gear" style. We're  we in the right place? Had I been lied to. Had we traveled all these miles for a steep mountain climb with no epic views??????????

The we rounded an apex and there she was. The car went silent, jaws dropped and before us rolled out Tarmac stretching up to the sky weaving in tight turns, more than any on a  Grand Prix circuit that I've seen. Clarkson said this was the best road he had driven. We were on it in Olly. Come on girl get us to the top. Nik was behind the wheel at this point Craig's eyes wide and desperate to get his hands on the steering wheel. I knew today would be epic and I would loose the boys to the road. I wasn't wrong. 

The Turns and inclines were harsh on Olly but Nik nursed her round. All realising that at this point Olly was maybe not the best car of choice. Craig wanting to rag his ST round the tight turns and Nik lusting after the Lotus. Me happy to reach the top, body shaking and glad to be standing. Thinking back, how was Anna  going to so this on a push bike?

We all pulled into a lay by two thirds up to check out the views. Cameras clicking, excited chatter and feeling and looking like we really where on the top of the world. I have decided mountains are my thing. I might have to try snow boarding, if you have met me you'll know how funny the idea of that is! 

Out came our Build a Bear mascots to have their pictures too. Mark came down to see us up to a better view point, could there be one? It just gets better. Getting Olly on was a mission with a huge tickle to her under belly. My legs were shaking, my knuckles white and stomach lurching but I couldn't not look. I'm not looking to good in the pictures. 

We had previously decided we would try some "wild" camping and look for a mountain side spot to pitch our tents. Mark and Richard had spotted one so we headed to it to see if we could get Olly off the road and over the rocks etc with Belly intact. Craig and I walked her in after scouting out a possible spot. Tent up, Craig beetling Nik's erection time of 51 sec with a amazing 31 sec's. gazebo up and time for lunch. What better location with stunning views but back enough from the edge for me to relax. I chilled away from the edge while the boys to Olly back out on to the Trans, Craig behind the wheel this time. I didn't fancy loosing my lunch as my stomach lurched at every turn. Once on their way I thought, should have kept the passports with me in case they don't return. 

Others joined us at camp and there was still no sight of the boys, should I get worried? They turned up eventually with huge grins. This was worth all the driving time and hours just to get to this point. However, they did report back that the brakes were not man enough for the job and break fade was an issue going down. Knowing we had gone up we must go down tomorrow over the other side of the mountain!

Camp was at 6,600 feet. 4,778 higher than our starting point. Wild camping was just the best camping night I have ever experienced. This is how it should be. No toilets, showers, bar, restaurant or wifi. But strangely the best mobile phone signal while sitting on top of the world.  It was BBQ time with the boys from some of the teams collecting fire wood. Team nightmare had an axe of all things. Imagine getting searched at the boarder with one of those. Steve set about sawing, lets just say it wasn't a quick job and everyone in camp sat about laughing. More beer needed. The Swedes set off to find Anna who returned looking triumphant but exhausted. A mountain stream was was needed. 

The fire was awesome, thanks to Steve's chopping efforts and some skilled fire building. We hadn't had much luck with Polish BBQ coals and those left from all the BBQ's also went on. The temperature was dropping and black clouds were rolling on. Lightening could be seen way in the distance. You could see the lightening bolt hit the ground below. Then ....we were suddenly engulfed in a cloud. I have never sat in a camping chair in a cloud before and doubt I will again. It was like a damp smog where you struggled to see 12 feet in front of you. Hole Windy teams disappeared.. Worrying really seeing as we were on top of a mountain ledge. Then came the rain, full on torrential dumping right on top of us. The camp sight was desimated with everyone grabbing their belongings and throwing them into their vehicles and diving into tents. No time for a quick loo stop, brush of teeth or change of clothes. We buttoned down the hatches while the rain kept coming, then huge bolts of thunder and lightening. It was on us, we were in it! The lightening lit up the whites of our eyes as we went from pitch black to day light, it seemed. Craig was checking the seems of the tent for potential leaks. It's only single skin after all. We held onto each other not sure if we would be washed off the mountain or hit by a bolt of lightening. It seemed to pass and then star all over again. Finally it mellowed and then the voice in the darkness said is everyone still alive?

Tomorrow we're headed to .............

So what's changed in 18 years?

Romania, Brasov

A very long day from Hungary to our campsite in Brasov, over 

7 constant hours on pot hole covered roads with lawless drivers. 

Craig was driving through the border crossing and was the first to experience a very special driving experience where all sense of safety,common sense and lawfulness are cast aside. Near disaster was well avoided and as soon as we threw all the driving rules we apply out the window and adopted the local driving style we were just fine. Cutting people up, not using indicators and driving on the bumper of the car in front  was the way forward. Today felt like a long slog in 35 degree heat with constant sun and no shade. The drivers tan is developing well. Due to the miles ahead we only stopped to fuel and take comfort breaks, but they were hard to come. This is where I wished I had listened to advice to bring a "she wee" with me.  

We felt reassured while having a road side Sarnie that another team sped past, spotted us and came to check we were ok only to find us making our lunch. A bonus of being sticker covered Windy style is that we can easily spot one another. Some vehicles are easier to spot than others. 

On what was a very long drive we continued to play our game. If you see a camper van VW style you have to shout "billly" to claim a point. First to shout "billy" it. If you're in the front it's much easier so my score is not great.

Romania has changed. In the towns and cities there was obvious signs of growth in infrastructure and commercial expansion. Tesco extra have arrived here too and you can collect Club card points too. The villages and small towns haven't changed much I could say from 18 years ago when I visited. There are however new houses being built alongside the old properties. To amuse us on our journey we were stalk spotting. It seems they favour building their nests on the top of the telephone poles. I was not convinced they were real until there was movement. We of course had the Gysy spotting on over drive and couldn't resist the "Borat" lines each time we came across them. Between Stalks and Gypsies there were the frequent roadside prostitues   all day, through out the day. 

On arrival into Brasov it was unrecognisable. A huge sprawling metropolis complete with Tesco extra, Carrefour and Liddle. The old towns till had character, it's just a matter of progressI suppose. 

As we headed for our camp site we came across Milly and Jezebel, so a convey was assumed. 

Nice site but campers and vans separated. Little wooden huts available and there was also the hotel. I dived for the shower on arrival and was caught out by the squat loo. I did find a sit down after by which time me and my shorts needed a clean. As I left the shower block  the rain had descended and came down with force. Thanks to the boys the tent was up as was gazebo with everyone huddled under until the rain ceased. Unfortunately it looked like it was in for the night. We all headed to the restaurant at the hotel and 20 or so of us took up a long table and exploited the cheap food and wine. Fillet steak £7 and champagne £6. Rude not to indulge, won't be able as soon as we are headed westwards! Good times with the Windy camping crew. We even had a birthday. It was Holly from Team Nightmare, cake and candles to celebrate. 

Tomorrow  we head off to ....................